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In
the first chapter of the history of golf, pebbles
were struck into rabbit holes in the fields of the
United Kingdom. Fitting then, that Bermuda, seen by
Americans as quaintly British and by the British as
extravagantly American, would have its scarce area
populated by several great courses, testaments to
the game’s origins and its boon. When the
conversation of golf on the island, rare is it that
a few sentences pass before Mid-Ocean is brought up,
a seaside links course built in 1921 by C.B.
Macdonald, an American architect with a penchant for
infusing his work with a traditional links feel.
Between the National Golf Links on Long Island,
Chicago Golf Club, and the Old White Course at the
Greenbrier, he best works have come when bestowed
with a rolling, scenic canvas. On the northeastern
shores of Bermuda, overlooking the ocean, Macdonald
had just what he needed, and the result is a
timeless gem with a pair of exceptional stretches
along the bluffs of the sea. Juxtaposed with some
charming classic golf holes weaving about the inland
Trott’s Pond, the aesthetically varied experience
here is deserving of its perennial acclaim.
Mid Ocean has been included among the top 100
courses in the world for a long time.
Charles
Macdonald’s tendency in design was to incorporate
the qualities of some of Great Britain’s greatest
holes, and he has clearly done so at Mid Ocean.
Built in modified “Redan” style, with a saucer green
that rejects less-than-perfect shots, the 17th is
clearly Mid Ocean’s greatest hole. Influenced by St.
Andrews, MacDonald’s U.K. roots are also evident in
holes such as the third, ‘Eden,’ and the 13th,
‘Biarritz.’ All holes are individually and uniquely
named, with many being pure Macdonald originals,
such as ‘Cape,’ a style of hole Macdonald first
designed at the National Golf Links.
This hole
requires a player to decide how much of Mangrove
Lake to cut off on the tee shot, with a conservative
play to the right leaving a longer and more
difficult approach to the green. The tee shot, from
a cliff perched scenically above the lake, is to a
fairway located some 100 feet below. From the
fairway the approach is into a green that falls off
severely to the left, with bunkers protecting the
conservative play to the right side. The fifth at
Mid Ocean improves upon Macdonald’s original at
National, and is arguably one of the finest and most
photographed golf holes in the world.
While it is difficult to gain access to many of
Macdonald's courses, Mid Ocean is a private course
open on certain days to guests of certain hotels,
including the two Fairmont hotels featured. The
course operates like most great private courses,
with exceptional locker room services and an
ever-helpful caddy master. Golfers are given the
option of taking a cart at Mid Ocean (and it is
recommended for those weary of the severe changes in
undulation), though walking with a caddy is the
preferred course of action. The caddies are a great
help, especially in reading the subtle breaks of Mid
Ocean’s greens. There will be times when the
caddie's advice seems questionable, but a few
misreads of your own early in the round will
convince you to heed their counsel.
Doing so
make the experience all the more enjoyable. The
first hole at Mid Ocean is a great opener, a
downhill par-four that measures 418 yards from the
back tees. It is appropriately named 'Atlantic;' the
crashing waves and blue hue of the ocean provide a
wonderful backdrop to the green. A drive favouring
the left side is suggested to cut down the distance
of the hole. The approach is notable due to a series
of bunkers, designed in a stair step pattern, that
flank the right side of the green.
The third hole, 'Eden', is a short par-three measuring
172 yards from the back tee. The best advice on this
hole is to aim for the center of the green with
enough club to carry the penal front bunkers.
The ninth hole, at 406 yards, is a great example of
the elevation changes at Mid Ocean. From the back
tee the hole plays over a lagoon to a wide fairway
located well below the tee, with bunkers pinching
either side. From the fairway the approach is
steeply uphill to the largest green on the course.
The halfway house is a must stop, for both a bite to
eat and a grand example of traditional local
architecture that fits well with the character of
the course.
Moving to
the inward half, a handful of highlights mark the
closing stretch, beginning at 13. This 238-yard par
three can be intimidating from the back tees, but
the shot is down the hill, reducing the effective
yardage. Trouble abounds, though. A large swale
before the green catches many shots not heroic
enough to carry the front edge, and four squared
traps flank the putting surface. The task at hand is
obvious enough—a straight and true shot to the
green’s center—but with any sort of wind tampering
with the long iron or fairway wood required makes
par an exceptional score.
The par-five 15th, known as
'Punchbowl' for the green shape common in
Macdonald’s designs, plays over a road that dissects
the course. The green, while reachable by the long
hitter, cannot be seen from the fairway even with
the best of drives. If the blind second shot can
carry the hill, there is a good chance it will
funnel onto the green and offer a birdie
opportunity.
The two closing holes swing back out to the Atlantic,
and the 17th is the best par three on the course.
‘Redan’ is guarded by bunkers on the left and in
back. The severely undulating putting surface can
create an array of difficult putts depending on the
hole location.
Running
parallel to a cliff constantly pounded by the
crashing waves, the 18th represents the
majestic finish at Mid Ocean. The pink clubhouse is
the aiming point from the tee, and from the fairway
the hole bends right. The approach is not overly
difficult if the drive is well placed, but the
greenside bunkers must be avoided for a legitimate
chance at a closing birdie.
Given its reputation as one of the world’s best
courses, Mid Ocean should be on every golfer’s list.
Bermuda's relatively close proximity to the eastern
seaboard means this is one of the best, and most
easily accessible destinations in North America. A
morning flight can put you on the first tee by noon,
in perfect time to enjoy a distinct links course and
a post-round afternoon tea session, without the jet
lag from a Transatlantic flight. |
