Known as the Pearl of the Atlantic, the lore of Madeira Island has been shrouded in a vague but priceless mystique since two students of Prince Henry the Navigator spotted its outline through the fogs off Porto Santo around 1418. The sailors knew nothing of the island but its contours, and yet in the spirit of exploration it was determined to be a shore on which their ships must land. They did, and to make the island passable torched all of its trees, a fire that Portuguese lore claims lasted as long as seven years. It was the disposal of all that timber that gave Madeira its name, and the rich blue waters and volcanic soil that made the island so desirous to the explorer are the same values that draw thousands of visitors to this charming floating garden.

With so much rich soil underfoot, it’s no wonder that every spring sees the island flourish with a new season of perennials. For decades, this amiable turn of season brought some of Portugal’s wealthiest families to the island, and today, guests from all over the world travel to enjoy the same experience from the same graceful elevations. In a time long ago when Count Carvalhal used to hunt the mountains high above the port city of Funchal, he built a quaint and exquisite lodge on a plateau. Auctioned off in 1885 to John Burden Blandy, the Count’s “casa” was left largely in ruins for over a century, as north Atlantic storms pummeled the structure every year. In fact, it wasn’t until 1987, when Portugal’s president visited the island, that the initiative to restore the old historic house began. 

Virtually in shambles, the process of bringing the Casa Velha up to snuff was a long and arduous one. The doors to the country estate opened to guests on the first of May in 1997, and with the Palheiro Gardens in full bloom, Madeira’s first and only five-star country house hotel was outfitted for a special opening ceremony. In the last seven years, extensive renovations to the existing hotel, including the development of Senior Suites and the expansion of the main dining room, has equipped the country estate with 37 guest rooms and ample space to accommodate garden visitors. Today, this Relais-Chateaux hotel sits in the lush, sub-tropical environment of the island’s hills, where guests derive lasting memories in this coastal Eden.

Flora from around the world blossom in the Palheiro Gardens, a vital part of the original Carvalhal estate that is in many ways a testament to the intrepid Portuguese in the age of exploration. The mélange of colour and aroma that soar out of these magnificent gardens draw thousands of visitors every year. Guests at Casa Velha get their own private entrance, as the original country house and recent room expansions are surrounded by the gardens. As one would expect from an estate that so values the foliage of its setting, the main dining room serves up five-star cuisine that accentuates the fresh, classic values of the ingredients locally available. Executive chef Benoit Sinthon, who worked at La Cote de St. Jacques, a Michelin 3-star restaurant in France, before coming to Madeira, pairs wonderful dishes in the Portuguese tradition with an extensive international wine list. The foie gras and rack of lamb are two classic highlights, and for dessert, no guest with a sweet tooth should call for the bill without first ordering the Moelleux of hot chocolate, finished with a suzette sauce that will weaken the knees of chocolate lovers. Over at the golf clubhouse, lunch comes with one of the best views in Europe, looking down over the port city of Funchal and out into the blue waters of the North Atlantic.

With such a refined atmosphere of elegance and privacy, it is easy to lose one’s self in the grounds of the resort. Wandering through the Palheiro Gardens, playing a quick round on the Cabell Robinson-designed Palheiro golf course, or just relaxing in the morning room with a cup of tea and a novel, guests are made to feel at home. The outdoor pool features a sun terrace and adjacent steam room, and tennis and croquet can be enjoyed right on the grounds. Off-property, a host of unique and extraordinary activities await. The hotel’s “Balancal,” a private motor yacht moored in the Funchal marina, is available for guests who wish to go deep-sea fishing, or dolphin and whale watching. Walks through the thrilling landscape of the Madeira hills are not limited to the Palheiro gardens. Long and elaborate routes along the levadas, a 2100-kilometer network of thin stone trenches built for irrigation purposes, guide foot soldiers to great views of the coastline far below, and of the rugged gorges and valleys across the countryside. A less strenuous day trip is to the Old Blandy Wine Lodge, the oldest surviving lodge in Madeira, specializing in the famous Madeira Wine. Just as the gardens nod to Portugal’s great importance as a mercantile economy centuries ago, the legacy can be found in a trip down the mountain to Funchal, where eclectic shops and boutiques harkens trade times of generations past. Between the traditions, the hospitality, and the understated elegance, it is no wonder that guests find themselves returning to Casa Velha regularly, vacationing in an outpost of the Old World, just as an old Count once lived.