Where to Stay - The Keltic Lodge

Travelling by road in a countryside with such vast and dramatic changes in setting around each bend, getting to the Keltic Lodge at Highland Links can be as enjoyable as the arrival and subsequent stay. It is as though, the lodge, which will celebrate its 65th year beginning next spring, is the castle of its own natural kingdom, perched on a shelf above the Atlantic waters that crash up against the shores of the Cabot Trail 

The drive from either Sydney or Halifax ingrains many of the naturally uplifting qualities that have drawn thousands of guests to the lodge each and every year; an on-call cable ferry and several charming Maritime hamlets are among the stops that dot the Cabot Trail highway leading to the resort, situated out at the head of the Middlehead Peninsula on a final ledge of the Cape Breton Highlands National Park. As the road snakes up to the clubhouse, the final hole of the Highland Links golf course sidles up alongside, marking a synchronicity between the end of the journey taken, and the end of another journey to be taken soon enough. For years, the principal highlight of time spent in Ingonish was the golf, a mainstay at the top of any list ranking the top courses in the country. The Keltic Lodge, a bemusing afterthought, is no longer unappreciated. Despite its many changes over the years, the Atlantic-Adirondack style and decor is a perfect fit with the sprawling lawns and timber stands within which it is nestled. The warm vibe of a country inn and the sincere hospitality of the people of Nova Scotia is combined with a British flair: plaid adorns the lodge interior, and the golf course authentically rolls over the land in an unfettered links style.

That said, the cuisine doesn't bear the specific tastes and aromas of a particular culinary tradition. Instead, the virtues of Canadian cuisine, the intricacies of British fare, and the bounty of the sea come together in the creations of executive chef Dave Nichols. An evening in the Purple Thistle dining room is imperative, where the local delicacy, lobster, is the traditional centerpiece of many of the dishes. Located just off the main lobby and featuring an expansive view of the Atlantic Ocean, it is the preferred choice for both dinner and breakfast.  Dinner is a set menu with five courses, a truly delicious way to enjoy an evening. The cuisine is highlighted by Maritime fare, including mussels, salmon and the choice of most visitors; lobster!  Fresh from the Atlantic Ocean, this prized gem is prepared in a variety of simple and exciting ways, a testament to the staff's commitment to highlight the bounty of the sea rather than their culinary expertise. 

In 1999, the Purple Thistle received some company at the Keltic Lodge in the Atlantic Dining Room, located just inside the entrance to the lodge grounds. The room is an impressive one, under a towering cathedral post-and-beam ceiling, but the atmosphere is relaxed and casual. Open for both lunch and dinner, seafood is again featured prominently on the menu, and as an added casual touch, a take-out ice cream kiosk is located near the entrance. It is the perfect venue for large groups or families. After hours, the bar and lounge across the lobby, often filled with the sounds of Celtic music, which draws hearty crowds in for a scotch around the fireplace for a nightcap.

The Keltic Lodge is essentially split into two main buildings. In the original lodge, the rooms keep thematic pace with the surrounding environs, featuring lovely Nova Scotia tartan textiles as decorative accents in each room. Paired with the broad windows that offer great views of the Cape Breton countryside, the synergy of indoors and out of doors come together nicely here. A pair of deluxe suites, recently renovated, are two-bedroom layouts, with private balcony, dining room, and brilliant views facing either east or west, allowing guests to enjoy the sun rising or setting on another day.

Adjacent to the original lodge is the Inn at Keltic, which lies just a few hundred yards from the main lodge. Rooms here are large and spacious, and large bay windows open up to great views of the Highlands or Cape Smokey, rising gently out of the sea. Each of the 40 rooms at the Keltic Lodge offer air-conditioned rooms and private, luxurious bathrooms and bath supplies, while the main communal room in the lodge features a striking central fireplace and a games room for those quiet evenings, or days when the weather refuses to cooperate.

Far more often than not, though, the splendour of Cape Breton draws visitors out, as an endless list of activities are available. For the golfer, repeated trips around the brilliant Highland Links course will suffice, but for non-golfers, equal opportunities are available. Hiking paths all through the Cabot Trail are a wonderful way to enjoy the environment. The Middlehead Hike swirls out from the lodge around the pointed coastal line.  The path will bring you through forest and along cliffs where you can sometimes spot a lobster fisherman at dusk and dawn. The hike reaches its climax halfway through. At this point you will want to bring out your camera (if you haven’t already) and capture the wild ocean crashing up against the rocky shore. If you remembered to pack a snack and some water, this marks a perfect place to enjoy it. 

For the sporting type, Ingonish is a dream, with salt and freshwater fishing available, mountain biking, sea kayaking, or a chartered whale-watching tour, of which there are several to choose from. A tip to the whale watcher; whales dislike wind, so save your boat trip for a calm day. You will generally be taken out on a traditional fishing boat, which ensures the tour group is intimate in size, and the opportunity to catch pilot, fin, minke, and humpback whales in their natural environment is a rare treat. For the very fortunate, sightings of sharks, giant sea turtles, dolphins, and seals have been reported. It can often be out at sea, looking back across the ocean at Ingonish Beach and Cape Breton National Park, that one truly begins to appreciate the simple charms of this oasis on the fringes of the North Atlantic.