There’s a palpable tension, a child-like intensity and excitement, that swells up in you in the hours before arriving at the Huka Lodge, a near-mythical natural oasis on New Zealand’s north island Lakeland. It can be tough to put into words. Coming by either car or helicopter, you pass alongside or over snow-capped volcanic mountain peaks, wild tussock, and a landscape rife with the greenest foliage and the deepest blue bodies of fresh water that can seem to be from another, earlier, unsullied world. Located precisely in the center of New Zealand’s charming North Island environment just off the shores of Lake Taupo, Huka Lodge has personified an ecotourism ethos since decades before the term came into use. It was a young Irishman with a heart for angling, Alan Pye, who heard an almost mythical story about a place at the island’s interior of incomparable beauty and bounty. Shortly after his arrival, seeing that the story was true, he immediately procured land on the banks of the Waikato River, built four simple canvas-clad huts for guests, and the legend of Huka Lodge, a place of fine food and hospitality, beauty and tranquility, was born.

By 1984, an entrepreneur by the name of Alex Van Heeren had become captivated enough by the incredible setting that he bought the Huka Lodge, setting it on its current course to becoming one of the unique luxury destinations in the world, one of its most famous retreats, and a prized member of the Leading Small Hotels of the World group. The goal has always been to provide an environment in which guests can customize the nature of their stay. It is a welcoming haven, with fireplaces that burn all day whether it be sun or fog, and woven wools and antique country furniture in classic settings allow guests to kick back and reflect on the peace of their surroundings. Huka Lodge may seem light on the conventional amenities, but the atmosphere dictates it to be so. Each day breaks with an energizing clarity and crispness, and a release of olfactory prizes that beckons one out into the Taupo wilderness.

This naturalness is present in every component of the Huka Lodge experience. There are a scant 20 guest suites spread about the seven-acre property, each one nestled beneath the limbs of old forest growth or tucked along the peaceful riverbanks. Enter through the front doors of one of the suites, and one is immediately transferred from the outside world into a private palace that merges beautifully with the surroundings. Built with soft-coloured woods in a post-and-beam style, each is spacious and light with broad glass French doors opening up on an elegant view of the lodge grounds. Beyond a casual sitting area and desk space, the suite’s bathrooms with double vanities and a gorgeous sunken tub, from which guests can enjoy river views through the paneled glass, completes the elegant accommodations, which are perfect for relaxing at the end of the day, or enjoying a cup of coffee as the morning mist burns off the river.

To better understand what comes after that morning cup of java, one must tap in again to the culinary passions of the resort’s founder. Ten years after the Lodge’s official opening, Van Heeren created an annual hospitality scholarship for a promising young New Zealand chef. In a tale reminiscent of Dickens’ “Great Expectations,” John Allred was schooled in Paris, Devon, and London for years, before returning triumphantly to New Zealand as the Huka Lodge’s Executive Chef. His menus here are richly seasonal and earthy, incorporating the fresh ingredients available in the region. On a cool night, Allred’s lima bean, hazelnut, and paprika soup before an open fire may suffice, but for a complete culinary experience, either in the main dining room or privately on the terrace, the bounty of the land comes alive on the plate here.

Day to day, though, there is simply too much at the Huka Lodge to justify whiling away the hours in your suite. Originally built as a fishing retreat, this inland ecosystem offers some of the best trout fishing in the world. Pull your catch angling on the Waikato or Lake Taupo, or arrange a private, guided, heli-fishing expedition to one of 23 nearby streams and rivers. There is, of course, championship golf at Wairakei International, just down the road, and a number of other exciting outings within the area, each of which takes guests to a unique place of serenity. Helicopter trips can usher guests to the North Island’s national parks, or visit Rotorua, an hour’s drive by car to the northeast, and witness incredible landforms and sites of geothermal activity; Hikes across these lunar-like landscapes approach the surreal. River rafting, hunting, snow skiing, or a trip to Cloudy Bay Vineyards are among other excursions that can be arranged. For those staying longer in the South Pacific, a trip to Dolphin Island, a private eight-acre all-inclusive retreat in Fiji, is an unforgettable side trip. Perfect for a small group of friends or the honeymoon oasis of a lifetime, Dolphin Island is a unique trip for long-term guests of the Huka Lodge who wish to enjoy another chapter in the South Pacific traditions of comfort, hospitality, and romance. A place of peace and solitude, and a jumping point for exploring New Zealand and the South Pacific, Alan Pye would today be proud; all the virtues of the region that captivated him have been artfully preserved for future generations of guests.