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 The
fingerprints of colony on the
Republic
of
Singapore are, in the context of the West/East binary, an historical map into the
advantages that Western culture has wrought on particular niches in
East Asia. The transformation of this tiny island oasis in a two-century span,
from fetid and disease-ridden dark space to affluent parliamentary
democracy, is a testament both to the traditions of trade and the
potential for polemic change. The ‘Lion City’ Singapore, founded and
so titled on a surreal whim by a Sumatran prince around 1250, was by
1819 a feared locale for European trading companies, but Sir Stamford
Raffles’, acting on behalf of the British East India Company to
strengthen the China – India trade route and forestall Dutch
expansionism, infiltrated the island, and a flourishing, capitalist
colony was quickly established. In the modern age, independence and a
fiercely pragmatic leadership quickly vaulted Singapore
to the upper echelon of the world’s wealthiest per capita nations.
Despite the recent Asian economic downturn, this nation-state, and the
towering glass structures signifying its prolonged affluence, is an
exciting and culturally rich oasis off the south coast of Malaysia.
In
the center of the downtown core (20 minutes from the airport), amid blocks and blocks of shopping
districts and convention centers, stands the Conrad Centennial
Singapore, the nation’s 2002 ‘Hotel Of The Year’ and the perfect
home base for a vacation unlike any other. Centuries of trade have
rendered many of the country’s beaches and swimming waters less than
attractive, but the world-class restaurants and shops, as well as the
cosmopolitan collection of festivals and events that take place
year-round, borrowed from the continent’s cultural flair, ensure that
a myriad of opportunities await the business or leisure traveler.
Looking out over the city center’s dramatic fountain terrace, the
509-room, 31-floor Conrad Centennial is an edifice of impressive
proportions. From the moment one steps into the vast, avant-garde
styling of the lobby, complete with an obliquely circular stairway,
broad contemporary furnishings and planters of towering bamboo shoots,
the immediate realization is that this is a hotel that keeps elite peers
around the globe. Rooms are spacious and tastefully decorated in an
understated, minimalist style, and come equipped with all the modern
amenities the discerning traveler demands: satellite television, direct
dial phones, data ports for PCs and faxing and broadband wireless
Internet access. On floors designated for business travelers,
complimentary breakfast buffet by the pool and a daily laundry and dry
cleaning allowance head a comprehensive list of perks.
With authority and little contest, Singapore
is also widely considered to be the food capital of
Asia, owing to the nation’s cosmopolitan culture and the integration of
these culinary traditions. Various districts around the urban center
such as Arab Street, Chinatown, and Little India portend the fine international cuisine available at
the Golden Peony, the
hotel’s sophisticated main dining room. Top chefs from Hong Kong have
come together to build complex and innovative Cantonese dishes for the
palate, with a menu grounded by a classic dim sum that is tribute to the
region’s cuisine, and the Peony’s
house specialty. At Oscar’s,
open 24 hours a day, and Oscar’s
Terrace, guests can grab a quick bite, enjoy a cocktail, or cool off
from the humidity with an ice cream treat. The hotel is a great starting
point for the culinary experience, but a great side trip to the shopping
experience is some time spent in the markets. Indian, Malay, and Chinese
influences abound, and some of the most exotic tropical fruits can be
purchased from street merchants and shops: starfruit, rambutan, and
zirzat among them.
There is a swimming pool and full-service fitness club and spa, but for
a more exciting time, take to the streets, or rent a bike and go
exploring. There is a fascination, moving away from the grand anonymity
of the downtown core into various pockets of leftover culture, with the
patchwork mosaic that is Singapore.
One moves in a single block from silk shops and feng
shui prophets to crafts shops, cell phone stores, and popular
Western name brand clothing outlets. Moving into the more rural parts of
the city, there are a variety of day trips well worth your while.
Ferries from a southern port take travelers to Sentosa
Island, and others among the 63 islets found in
Singapore’s territorial waters. Here and there are some gems, where swimming is
pleasant and the beaches are pristine. To the north, a great afternoon
can be had at the Bukit Timah Nature Reserve, a large section of
undeveloped rainforest. But for the traveler looking to spend an
afternoon on the golf course, Singapore
surprisingly has more than a dozen excellent courses, most of which are
accessible to the public; the recent economic downturn has forced many
clubs to loosen their policies, and the move has been beneficial to all
involved. Nevertheless, it is best to arrange access to some courses in
advance, as guest policies can vary and are subject to change. Arguably
the best layout is the Garden Course at the Tanah Merah Country Club,
though the Singapore Island Country Club and Laguna National should be
played if time allows for it. If visitors can avoid the rainy season in
Singapore, an evening of golf under the lights at Jurong Country Club,
in the republic’s west end, should not be passed up. Host of the 2003
Asian Senior Masters, it is a strong, classic layout, and playing
beneath the floodlights, with the glow of the urban landscape on the
eastern horizon, is a uniquely surreal experience, and truly a microcosm
of the fascinating mosaic to be found in Singapore.
Where
to Stay
Conrad
Centennial Singapore - http://www.ConradHotels.com
- Two Temasek Boulevard, Singapore 038982 - Tel.: (65) 6334 8888 - Reservations Tel: (65) 1800 432 7192 -
Email: singaporeinfo@conradhotels.com
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